This article was published in the Read the Label series at Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Many consumers prefer cosmetic products that work instantly after application.  Immediate visible effects in cosmetics can be achieved through physical or optical mechanisms rather than biological activity, which generally requires repeated application over weeks.  

Categories that deliver rapid perceptible changes include color cosmetics, optical blurring systems and film-forming formulations designed to temporarily tighten the skin.  The most well-known of the skin tightening products is Plexaderm Rapid Reduction Serum, marketed by Sheer Science.  Sheer Science, based in Florida and headed by chief executive officer Jonathan Greenhut, is a successor company to True Earth Health Products, LLC, which marketed an early version of Plexaderm.

The mechanism of action of skin tightening lotions and serums has been understood for a long time.  They are based on product-films on skin that contract on drying when they lose water.  The contracting films can be inorganic, as in the case of Plexaderm, or organic, when the films contain organic polymers.  Key in all cases is that the film must have mechanical integrity so it doesn’t crack or delaminate while contracting, at least not right away.  The tightening films make the skin appear smoother and less textured.  This effect is obvious in before-and-after images.

The film-former in Plexaderm is sodium silicate, sometimes known as “liquid glass,” in combination with magnesium aluminum silicate, a clay thickener that helps create the film.  This tightening system is well known and not unique to Plexaderm; a 2013 patent claims the sodium silicate/silicate clay system in combination with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients including thickeners, solvents, pigments and skin care actives such as vitamins.¹  The Plexaderm formulation was claimed in a 2023 U.S. patent application.²

Competing products with the same or similar ingredients are Peter Thomas Roth Instant FirmX Eye and Serious Skincare Insta-Tox.  These contain similar sodium silicate/magnesium aluminum silicate ingredients.

In 2025, Elle magazine named Plexaderm the best instant wrinkle filler, citing its instant and relatively long-lasting results, claiming the smoothing effect lasts for 10 hours.  On Amazon, the product received a 4.0 out of 5 review rating, with customers mentioning its instant effect but complaining about the white residue it leaves on the skin.

On its website and packaging, Plexaderm claims that the serum visibly reduces under-eye bags and wrinkles.  A clinical test with 43 subjects using the Canfield VISIA facial skin analysis system is said to show an 80% reduction in the look of under-eye bags and dark circles, as well as similar decreases in the appearance of other skin defects such as wrinkles and crow’s feet.  The effect is claimed to last for up to 10 hours, based on a clinical test with 17 people.  Details on these clinical tests – e.g. whether a placebo was used for comparison and whether the before and after photos used in marketing are representative – are not available.  The clinical studies have not been published in a peer-reviewed journal.

Plexaderm Rapid Reduction Serum is priced at $59.95 for 0.33 fl oz (10 mL).  This premium price point for a relatively uncomplicated formula is typical of direct marketing products.  In reviews, customers complain about the high cost of the product.  However, at least one customer feels that the high cost is justified because the product obviates the need for much more pricey cosmetic surgery procedures.  The main competitor, Peter Thomas Roth Instant Firmx Eye, costs $39 for 0.67 fl oz (20 mL), with very similar ingredients.  This product also cites clinical test evidence in its marketing messages.

The ingredient list is shown below.  In addition to the tightening ingredients, the formula also contains Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, a topical anti-wrinkle ingredient, and collagen.  These may add to the immediately visible effect depending on concentration.  The formulation is stabilized by cellulose gum and xanthan gum and preserved by phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

References:

1. Laurie E. Breyfogle, “Methods for smoothing wrinkles and skin texture imperfections”, WO 2013/109850 A2, The Procter & Gamble Company (2013).
2.  Stefanie C. Magda, David Pollock, Jonathan Greenhut, David A. Cohon, Jeanne Borgia, “Topical instant smoothing and coloring compositions for the skin”, US Patent Application 20230240965 A1, True Earth Health Products (2023).